By A. P. Hill, Damon Lee Fowler
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Additional resources for Mrs. Hill's southern practical cookery and receipt book
39Ersatz in the Confederacy, 76. Page xxxix ses were beginning to appear in the curing mixture, but were not yet usual. As mentioned earlier, sugar cures had long been used in other regions, even within the South, but there were parts of the South, including Georgia, where sugar cures were not widely used and were virtually unknown until the latter part of the nineteenth century. Notice, too, that she hinted that such practice was preferred in warmer climates. There are other distinctly regional touches in her discussion of the hog-killing and curing processes.
In South Carolina, it was usual. (As early as 1770, Harriett Pinckney Horry included it in her formula. So did her niece, Sarah Rutledge, and Theresa Brown). It was also included in Lettice Bryan's Kentucky formula. But in Virginia it is seldom mentioned. Try to find a ham without sugar in itor on ittoday. By the time of Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879), the increased use of sugar and the number of recipes for sweets were already tipping the balance (this book contains one of the earliest Southern mentions I have found of a sugar glaze on ham).
P[owell]. Hill, Mrs. Hill's New Cook Book (New York: James O'Kane, 1867), 8082. I do note that Miss Brown also advocates medium rare as opposed to Mrs. Hill, whose roasts would have been on the done side of medium. Within another generation, roasts were all cooked to death. Page xxi project any later than 1865, if that late. Even though there were recipes borrowed from other writers, as Mrs. Hill acknowledged, every one of them is rewritten in her own words, often with added observations from her own experience.