Basic Coastal Engineering, 3rd Edition by Robert M. Sorensen

By Robert M. Sorensen

This text/reference is the single one in every of its type to supply the fundamentals on floor wave mechanics and coastal approaches in addition to the basics of coastal engineering research and design.  It additionally presents the required historical past from which the reader can pursue a extra complicated examine of a number of the theoretical and utilized facets of coastal hydromechanics and coastal engineering layout. This vintage text/reference bargains senior and starting post-graduate scholars in civil and mechanical engineering or the actual and environmental sciences a well-rounded creation to coastal engineering. Engineers and actual environmental scientists who've now not had the chance for formal research in coastal engineering, yet wish to get to grips with the topic, also will make the most of this well timed source. This vintage text/reference deals senior and starting post-graduate scholars in civil and mechanical engineering or the actual and environmental sciences a well-rounded creation to coastal engineering.

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From the small-amplitude wave theory, the wave celerity is independent of the wave height. So, as the wave height increases the crest particle velocity will eventually equal the wave celerity and the wave will break. In shallow water, as the water depth decreases the crest particle velocity increases and the wave celerity decreases, leading to instability and breaking. 40 / Basic Coastal Engineering Miche (1944) developed a simple equation for wave breaking in any water depth given by   H 1 2pd ¼ tanh L max 7 L (2:66) This equation ignores the bottom slope which, as discussed above, aVects development of wave asymmetry and breaking as a wave shoals.

43) yields Cg ¼   C 2kd 1þ 2 sinh 2kd (2:44) Thus, with n as deWned in Eq. 38) Cg ¼ nC (2:45) So n is also the ratio of the wave group celerity to the phase celerity. Another way to look at this is that the wave energy is propagated forward at the group celerity. , force exerted by a water jet hitting a wall). Similarly, for waves it is Two-Dimensional Wave Equations and Wave Characteristics / 31 better to consider the Xux of momentum for some problem analyses. For wave analyses, the Xux of momentum is commonly referred to as the wave ‘‘radiation stress’’ which may be deWned as ‘‘the excess Xow of momentum due to the presence of waves’’ (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964).

This rate of energy dissipation is complex and typically nonuniform. , H ¼ g(d þ d 0 ). 8). Also, we will assume that shallow water wave conditions exist so Sxx ¼ 3E=2. These assumptions lead to a solution to Eq. 52) given by dd 0 ¼ dx  8 1þ 2 3g À1 dd dx (2:54) which gives the slope of the mean water level as a function of the bottom slope in the surf zone. 2 m deep (below the mean water level) as it is about to break. 02. Find the setdown at the breaker point and the setup (above the still water line) at the still water line contour of the shore.

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